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Automobile-free east of England: a Christmas fortress, winter walks and fairytale villages | Lincolnshire holidays



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The eight milkmaids have had a knees-up within the Elizabeth Salon – at the least it seems that means – leaving a pastel-coloured tower of pails, cows, and three-legged stools underneath the ornate painted ceiling. Subsequent door, seven sculptural swans are swimming via an elaborate silver centrepiece above a grand banqueting desk, whereas six lifesize geese have laid Fabergé-style eggs in glowing bullrush-fringed nests.

Charlotte Lloyd Webber, who decorates Bamburgh Fortress, Northumberland, and Fortress Howard, North Yorkshire, has created a wonderfully theatrical 12 Days of Christmas right here at Belvoir (pronounced “beaver”) Fortress. The show options greater than 100 bushes and hundreds of baubles; the 5 gold rings take the type of an enormous kinetic sculpture, twirling above Belvoir’s outstanding artwork assortment (from £10/£19 for kids/adults,


Even with out its seasonal bling, Belvoir is dripping in gold and brocade. There are peacock motifs in all places: on carpets, carvings and gilded stuccowork. A part of the homeowners’ household crest, peacocks pop up once more within the Aviary Tearoom, the place the festive tea is a multilayered showstopper that features gold and purple macarons and smoked cheddar sandwiches with selfmade spiced pear chutney (£70 for 2, plus entrance,

Because the Norman-French title suggests, the jewel in Belvoir’s crown is the vast view from its home windows. On a transparent day, you can also make out the towers of Lincoln Cathedral on the horizon. South Kesteven is the nook of Lincolnshire that features close by Grantham and Stamford with its honey-stone partitions. It’s tailored for a winter break, with cities and villages that may really feel like a Christmas set from an imaginary Disney model of England. Grantham additionally has quick, frequent trains, so I’m right here for car-free seasonal cheer, bracing walks, medieval church buildings and fireplace pints.


This morning’s prepare raced from Peterborough to Grantham in 20 minutes. Getting from the station to Belvoir and not using a automobile is trickier. I booked a demand-responsive minibus via Callconnect, which hyperlinks bus-less villages in Lincolnshire. The service is rolling out an app, however I needed to cellphone the busy helpline to discover a slot. As soon as booked, the journey is trackable and fares are capped, as on common buses, at £2.

The Church of St James in the fog at Woolsthorpe in the Vale of Belvoir
The Church of St James at Woolsthorpe within the Vale of Belvoir. {Photograph}: Neil Squires/Alamy

I might have used this service to get again from Belvoir, however golden winter sunshine tempts me to hike the couple of miles to Woolsthorpe by Belvoir and catch bus 9 as an alternative. The stroll is idyllic, providing fairytale views throughout sheep-sprinkled Functionality Brown parkland to the hilltop fortress. After having fun with a ginger beer within the Chequers Inn, I wait on the cease and spot the bus ominously disappearing from the monitoring map on the web site Ultimately I hitch a carry with a passing van.

Again in Grantham, there’s simply time to admire towering St Wulfram church with its dramatic blue-and-gold inside earlier than catching my prepare. At Peterborough Cathedral, with its lovely vaulted ceiling, mild artists Luxmuralis are putting in a seasonal son-et-lumière (£8/£6.50 adults/youngsters,

Bus 201 from Peterborough to Stamford stops in Barnack, the place the village church has a Romanesque sculpture and Saxon tower, and the just lately renovated Millstone pub has a log hearth and gourmand menu. A few minutes’ stroll from right here, you’ll discover Hills and Holes nature reserve, 20 hectares (50 acres) of hummocky, biodiverse land that was a medieval quarry. Creamy limestone, often called Barnack rag, was dug up right here and used to construct Cambridge schools, in addition to Ely and Peterborough cathedrals; blocks of stone have been dragged to the river to be transported by barge. Now the grassy hollows are residence to uncommon vegetation, together with orchids and purple pasqueflowers that bloom round Easter. In November, there are autumn gentians among the many cropped grass, harebells nodding within the wind, and cascading burnished leaves on tall silver birches.

Burghley House on a frosty day with the sun low in the sky
Burghley Home, constructed by Elizabeth I’s treasurer, William Cecil

I’m staying in Stamford’s William Cecil resort. It’s named after Elizabeth I’s treasurer, who constructed Burghley Home close by. The resort has two dozen luxurious rooms off a labyrinth of corridors and a grand picket staircase (doubles from about £120 B&B, Burghley Park is on the doorstep, and new strolling trails are being developed. Subsequent morning, I wander previous historical bushes and chic neoclassical bridges. One other Functionality Brown creation, the serpentine lake and artfully naturalised deer park encompass a formidable Elizabethan mansion (deer park is free,

This 12 months, for the primary time, Burghley is opening the gardens on winter weekends. They’re vibrant with berried shrubs, heavy-headed dahlias and lipstick-pink cyclamen underneath coppery oaks. The Backyard of Surprises is a perfect centrepiece for a cheering stroll; playful water options bubble amongst yellow kingcups and spin delicate metallic leaves. There’s additionally a mirror maze, misty grotto and interactive obelisks that symbolize the weather (gardens £7.50/£9 for kids/adults,

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