Connect with us


I’ll stage with you – I actually love Britain’s flat landscapes | England holidays



If you go to the flat fenlands of Cambridgeshire on a transparent day, and stroll alongside the ruler-lined channels and droves, you may – if you happen to’re fortunate – see a freight prepare pulling itself out of the horizon like a magican’s limitless scarf. Stand and watch, so long as you possibly can. The prepare traces the highest of the extent land, wagon by colored wagon, till the entire distance is trimmed with its goal. Your consideration will drift off, and drift again in, and that prepare will nonetheless be there, streaming alongside. And even when you possibly can now not hear its roar – when the wind’s slap of silence takes over your ears once more – you’ll nonetheless have the ability to see the freight carriages, taking their time to fade from that naked panorama.

We don’t speak a lot about Britain’s flat locations. From the Cambridgeshire fens to the West Lancashire coastal plain, we move over them hurriedly, searching for forests or rivers or mountains. Flat locations appear hardly to rely as locations. They’re simply the gaps between landmarks. If individuals take into consideration flatlands in any respect, it’s normally to name them boring. Nothing to take a look at, nothing to concentrate on, no hidden locations to find. To be flat is to be boring: a cut-and-dried equation. So in Noël Coward’s play Personal Lives (1930), divorcee Amanda demolishes her ex-husband’s new spouse – met at a celebration in East Anglia – with the tasteless assertion: “Very flat, Norfolk.” Norfolk has been making an attempt to dwell this down ever since. “There are a number of misperceptions about Norfolk,” pleads the Go to Norfolk web site, “not least that the county is flat, distant and the climate isn’t nice. Learn on and we’ll debunk all of them …”

A freight train crosses fenland near Ely.
A freight prepare crosses fenland close to Ely. {Photograph}: Anthony Kay/Rail/Alamy

However Norfolk doesn’t must woo me with undulations. Its Beacon Hill and Beeston Bump depart me chilly. As a result of whether or not it’s drained farmland, shingle seaside or naked moor, I like flat landscapes greater than every other. In 2021 and 2022, I travelled round a few of Britain’s flattest landscapes – Cambridgeshire, Suffolk, Morecambe Bay, Orkney, Newcastle Moor – and I’m nonetheless not uninterested in them. Flat locations proceed to seduce me. Go to any seaside when the tide is out, and also you get a style of their magnificence. You don’t want golden sands: mud will do completely. The purpose is to seek out that ruler-straight line of the horizon, reduce with such confidence and swagger towards the massive sky. After I stare upon a flat house, a weight falls from me and vitality rises up by means of my physique. I really feel totally free in physique and thoughts; I need to run and yell and cartwheel.

Should you really feel unusual on the earth – somewhat bit alien, maybe, as so many people do – you may discover a dwelling for your self in flat locations. As I found, watching that freight prepare run by means of the Cambridgeshire fens in 2021, the smallest issues turn out to be bizarre in a flat place. Regular guidelines are suspended. With out landmarks to floor me, time and distance warped and shrank. A faraway white seagull appeared the dimensions of a sheep; speck-like human figures loomed giant with bewildering pace. Flat landscapes even invite mirages, these false glimmers of water luring thirsty travellers within the desert. No surprise, due to this fact, that flat locations such because the Somerset Ranges are wealthy with fantasy and folklore. King Arthur lingers within the Avalon Marshes. Hereward the Wake leaves his path from Oakham to Thetford. After I discover myself in a flat panorama, this magic tingles by means of my physique. What’s unusual in me begins to really feel particular.

Perspectives shift on the beach at Knott End, Lancashire.
Views shift on the seaside at Knott Finish, Lancashire. {Photograph}: Lancashire Photographs/Alamy

If you stand in these areas, a way of energy fights with vulnerability. On one hand, you’re the tallest factor within the panorama. On the opposite – with out the shelter of bushes and hills – you’re wholly unprotected. You’ll be able to see something or anybody coming for miles – however equally, they will see you too. And these areas convey up greater philosophical questions, if we let ourselves discover them: how will we look at a flat panorama in any respect? What will we concentrate on, in an area with no landmarks? No surprise individuals usually discover flat landscapes scary. They bother our sense of our personal significance, and our confidence about how we work together with our environments.

So the western response to flat landscapes, traditionally, has been to do away with them. To construct on them; to colonise them (consider the frontier fantasy in North America); to disrupt their inscrutable weirdness. However flat locations have additionally goaded individuals into artwork: to working with, not towards, the unusual levelness. Flat expanses seem repeatedly within the work of eccentric or outsider artists: Craigie Aitchison’s crucifixion scenes, LS Lowry’s seascapes, Georgia O’Keefe’s prairies and clouds. And the landscapes themselves make room for artwork, ceremony and ritual. It’s onerous for me to not see Orkney’s standing stones as a response to its huge naked stretches. Confronted with these beautiful horizontals, individuals 1000’s of years in the past erected tall stones as counterpoints, emblems of the peerlessly vertical. Relatively than difficult the flatness, these 90-degree slates create accent, permitting the flat islands to appear extra themselves.

Shingle Street, Suffolk, and the line of white whelk shells.
Shingle Avenue, Suffolk, and the road of white whelk shells. {Photograph}: Clynt Garnham/Stockimo/Alamy

On the different finish of Britain, in considered one of my very favorite landscapes – Shingle Avenue, a divinely flat shingle seaside in Suffolk – buddies Lida Cardozo Kindersley and Els Bottema, resting collectively from the exigencies of most cancers remedy, made a line of white whelk shells that stretched nearly 300 metres. The panorama made house for them to play, experiment and easily be: in return, the Shingle Avenue shell line wound by means of the shingle with out overwriting it.

Noreen Masud
Noreen Masud: ‘Flat locations proceed to seduce me.’ {Photograph}: Noreen Masud

Most present stage landscapes within the UK had been recovered, painstakingly, from water. The fens of East Anglia had been drained within the seventeenth century, at large expense. And, in fact, that water retains making an attempt to come back again: cities corresponding to March, 17 miles east of Peterborough, flood increasingly more usually because the local weather shifts. It’s the identical in flat landscapes throughout Britain. The magnificent glittering flatness of Morecambe Bay, within the north-west, is barely ever a short lived delight; daily the water rushes again in, reclaiming its rightful property, protecting the flatland secure from growth. The ocean tactfully covers and recovers breathtaking expanses: it provides us a peep every now and then, however is aware of we are able to’t be trusted with them for lengthy. So cease and look, subsequent time you see a flat place. Let your eye run out over the expanse, relaxed, intent with out goal. Really feel that sturdy, unapologetic horizon line like a sensation in your physique. It’s bizarre and alien, however so are you.

Noreen Masud is creator of A Flat Place is printed by Penguin (£16.99). To help the Guardian and Observer order your copy at Supply costs might apply

Click to comment

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *