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I’ve written about France for 20 years – listed below are my favorite locations to go to | France holidays



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When you’ll be able to gaze on the salt pans of Guérande, close to Nantes, cycle by means of lavender fields in Drôme, within the south-east, and bask within the splendour of the Cirque de Gavarnie within the Pyrénees, it’s important to surprise how France obtained so fortunate with its various landscapes. Most not too long ago, the volcanic panorama of the Massif Central captured my coronary heart. The chain of extinct volcanoes runs south from the very best, Le Puy de Dôme (there’s a rack railway to the highest) close to Clermont-Ferrand.

South of the rugged peaks in Cantal, the city of Chaudes-Aigues has two sizzling springs – Europe’s hottest at 65C and 82C – that spurt from spouts within the city sq.. Two hours east, the extraordinary city of Le Puy-en-Velay is the start line for the medieval pilgrimage path to Santiago de Compostela. Its Saint-Michel d’Aiguilhe chapel sits atop a basalt needle, whereas its different peaks are topped by the cathedral and a Notre Dame de France statue.



Port Rolland cove on Brittany’s Côte de Granit Rose. {Photograph}: olrat/Alamy

It isn’t simply the landscapes that fluctuate so a lot throughout the nation – France’s coast has so many traits there’s a identify for each stretch. On the Côte d’Opale, on the north coast, I’ve sat and admired the belle époque villas; additional west, on Brittany’s Côte de Granit Rose, I’ve swum in coves surrounded by pink-hued boulders carved into extraordinary shapes by wind and sea. Within the south-west, I’ve basked within the sunshine and dug my toes into silky blond sand because the Atlantic rolled into shore at Capbreton on the Côte d’Argent; and I’ll always remember an impromptu paddle from a tiny seashore hidden between oyster farmers’ huts at L’Herbe on Cap Ferret, on the opposite facet of Arcachon Bay.


The dramatic seascape at Pointe de Pern on Ushant island. {Photograph}: Crystite RF/Alamy

France’s coast is dotted with islands, all with distinct identities. On the Atlantic coast, I fell in love with the Île d’Yeu, which was harking back to Greece, with its whitewashed homes and vibrant shutters, whereas the Île de Porquerolles off the Côte d’Azur noticed us biking previous pine-fringed seashores and vineyards.

The one that basically sticks within the reminiscence, although, is Brittany’s Ushant (Île d’Ouessant in French), within the Iroise Sea off the far west coast. On a heat summer time’s day, we cycled over its moorland, previous lighthouses and green-shuttered cottages. After we reached the Pointe de Pern, essentially the most westerly level of metropolitan France, I couldn’t consider the roar because the Atlantic waves crashed in opposition to the tumble of brown rocks.



A cyclepath on the Île de Ré. {Photograph}: Duncan Phillips/Alamy

These looking for pure highs aren’t wanting alternatives in L’Hexagone. Now our kids are a bit older, paddling on the seashore gained’t minimize it, so we’ve employed sand yachts and darted throughout the broad seashore at Barbâtre on the Île de Noirmoutier off the coast close to Nantes. In lots of forests throughout France, we’ve swung and climbed by means of the bushes on accrobranche treetop adventures.

In fact, the exercise the French excel at is le cyclisme, and the Île de Ré off the west coast was made for it. We’ve pedalled alongside easy cycle paths between whitewashed villages adorned with hollyhocks, our legs powered by salted butter caramels.


Edgar Degas’ Washerwomen on the Musée d’artwork moderne André Malraux, Le Havre. {Photograph}: Album/Alamy

Paris is all the time the primary cease in France for artwork lovers, and little can rival the expertise of standing eye-to-eye with Van Gogh’s self-portrait on the Musée d’Orsay, reflecting that, as he made these distinct and vibrant brush strokes as a penniless artist, he would by no means know his influence on the artwork world 135 years later.


Past Paris, I’ve beloved getting immersed in lesser-known galleries, which additionally supply moments of surprise. Le Havre’s light-filled Musée d’artwork moderne André Malraux holds considered one of France’s largest collections of impressionist artwork, together with works by Renoir, Pissarro, Sisley, Degas and Courbet. It’s a must-visit throughout this 12 months’s Normandy impressionist competition.


Musée Cinema et Miniature in Lyon. {Photograph}: Media Drum World/Alamy

It by no means ceases to amaze how the French handle to make museums on such wide-ranging topics, from the surprisingly fascinating Musée de la Fraise (strawberry) in Plougastel, Brittany to the exquisitely intricate fashions within the Musée Cinema et Miniature in Lyon. There are big-budget ones, such because the not too long ago revamped Musée Nationwide de la Marine in Paris’s Trocadéro, which blends historic mannequin ships and work with trendy improvements akin to a large CGI wave to deliver the historical past of seafaring alive.

However smaller museums will be as partaking. In an attractive mansion within the north-eastern walled city of Langres, the Home of Enlightenment tells the story of the city’s most well-known son, Denis Diderot, the thinker, artwork critic and author who wrote a lot of the 1751 Encyclopédie.



Stained glass in St Joseph’s church in Le Havre. {Photograph}: Alan Gillam/Alamy

France’s many chateaux and cathedrals get essentially the most consideration, however I’ve been enchanted by extra trendy structure, too. On my go to to Le Corbusier’s concrete Saint-Pierre church in Firminy, within the Loire Valley, I caught a bunch of music college students practising four-part concord within the extraordinary acoustics of the sloped partitions, whereas the daylight was shining by means of dozens of tiny home windows like a constellation of stars.

In Le Havre, towering above the Lego-like residence blocks, is the equally spectacular St Joseph’s church. Inside, I sat beneath the kaleidoscopic octagonal tower in reverence as I stared up at its 12,000 panes of colored glass.


The large elephant puppet roaming an island within the Loire, in Nantes. {Photograph}: olrat/Alamy

I like Lyon for its gastronomy, Marseille for its myriad quartiers and characters, Bordeaux for its splendour and Good for its mild. However lesser-known cities additionally maintain delights. Nantes is a artistic powerhouse with its personal magic, encapsulated by the Machines de Nantes, together with the large robotic elephant that roams round an island within the Loire, subsequent to a three-storey Jules-Verne-inspired carousel (their creations will be present in Toulouse and Calais now, too). There are road artwork installations and, alongside the river in direction of Saint-Nazaire, a set of kooky artwork installations.


Getting round

A practice crosses a viaduct close to Marseille. {Photograph}: Chris Hellier/Alamy

There’s a pleasure to creating the journey a part of the vacation, particularly for individuals who select to not have the stress of the airport and need to maintain their carbon footprint low. I’ve all the time beloved standing on deck because the ferry comes into Saint Malo: the view of its stately walled city is especially good from the ocean.

Driving in France is a pleasure (actually in contrast with the a lot busier UK): these empty roads lined with airplane bushes are justly well-known. The A49 from Grenoble is an superior route because it skirts previous the Vercors mountains and walnut groves, whereas the Millau viaduct on the A75 is all the time a thrill to cross.

And trains are quick, environment friendly and comfy; I like the route alongside the Côte d’Azur from Marseille to Good – TGV OuiGo trains depart from Marseille’s Saint-Charles station and arrive in Good Ville in lower than three hours, providing glimpses of the shimmering Mediterranean between the terracotta roofs and cypress pines.


The place to remain

La Chouette Cabane, close to Laval. {Photograph}: Chouette Cabane

No matter you bear in mind for lodging, France has it. A bed room in a fortress – Château de Saint Paterne is my favorite. An attractive gîte – Le Mas and Le Mazet within the Dordogne eclipsed all others. A cute chambres d’hôtes, the place the homeowners deal with you want long-lost mates – I’ve by no means been upset by Sawday’s locations. And the French are in a category of their very own in terms of extra uncommon locations. There are fabulous tree homes – at La Chouette Cabane within the Mayenne our scrumptious dinner was winched as much as the deck on a pulley and accompanied by a frog refrain as evening fell.

In lesser-known Lorraine, the country cabin with its personal sauna subsequent to the Lake de Pierre-Percée felt wildly distant. After which there was the eco-lodge formed like a cow: in deepest Burgundy, a area rightly happy with its beef and cheese, the Vache Ecolodge sleeps 12 and is adorned on a bovine theme all through. Fairly mad, however good enjoyable.

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