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My Lake District journey: a climb, a stroll and a swim | Lake District holidays



In the eating room of the Wasdale Head Inn, explorer and climber Leo Houlding is inspecting the partitions, trying again 150 years to the origins of mountain journey as a sport. On a shelf is a stack of previous hobnail boots, a pair of ice axes crossed above a brace of canvas haversacks, and wonderful black-and-white pictures of the pioneers: the tweedy chaps who first got here up with the nonsensical notion that scaling rock faces and mountains is perhaps enjoyable.

Leo is a person who has conquered a few of the most distant and difficult rock partitions on Earth, and but he’s in awe, stating the archaic tools to his two youngsters, Freya, 9, and Jackson, six. “What they did,” he says, “with out climbing footwear or something like trendy gear, is superb.”

Travel 25 July Kevin map

Leo, Freya, Jackson and I are going to scale a basic – arguably the route that began all of it: the 18-metre Napes Needle, an igneous rock formation that initiatives from the vertiginous sides of Nice Gable above Wasdale. In 1886 Walter Parry Haskett Smith got here right here, alone, and climbed the needle.

When {a photograph} of a determine on prime of the pillar was displayed in a London store window a couple of years later it induced a sensation, inspiring a technology of climbers. Leo is the fashionable equal, an inspiration for anybody wanting journey. His new ebook, Nearer to the Edge, catalogues his exploits.

View over Wast Water from the Wasdale Head route up to Scafell Pike.
View over Wast Water from the Wasdale Head route as much as Scafell Pike. {Photograph}: Anna Stowe Landscapes UK/Alamy

Journey, these old-timers had realised, might be good for you and, what’s extra, you don’t must go far to seek out it. I’m hoping to find contemporary challenges inside the UK, and never simply climbing: I wish to kayak, scramble, stroll and swim, too.

For inspiration I’ll flip to pioneers akin to mountaineer Haskett Smith and books like Basic Rock, a 1978 assortment by influential author and photographer Ken Wilson – but in addition to more moderen publications just like the collection of Wild guides. In every of 4 areas throughout the nation I’ll discover new experiences and concepts.

The stroll

Walkers cross Morecambe Bay.
Walkers cross Morecambe Bay. {Photograph}: Kevin Rushby

Earlier than the climb, nonetheless, I determine on an adventurous route into the Lakes, strolling throughout the shifting sands of Morecambe Bay. This space, 120 sq. miles of it, has claimed many lives through the years, however the treacherous tidal flats might be crossed with a information, native fisher Michael Wilson, who leads walks throughout from Arnside to Grange-over-Sands for varied charities most weekends. I’m right here with Ali Fairly who’s main Bay Traces – Seaside of Desires, a inventive mission celebrating the shoreline, pathways and tales of Morecambe Bay.

Arriving at Arnside, I’m astonished to seek out about 500 folks ready for Michael, who wants a loudhailer to offer the protection briefing. “If anybody will get caught, go away them.”


“I’m critical. If there’s any rescuing to be accomplished, the tractors will go to them.” That’s the second shock, two veteran machines will chug alongside. Much more curious, Michael tells me these are his “boats”: his fishing method is to go away nets out in a single day, then verify them when the tide goes out. That’s how he grew to become an skilled on the treacherous sands and their unpredictable actions.


We set off down the coast, then out throughout the sands, following a line of pre-planted branches that act as markers. Is it harmful, I ask Michael, who’s out in entrance, his tractors and varied assistants conserving the lengthy caterpillar of walkers on the appropriate path. “It may be,” he says. “We cross three water channels and they’re continuously altering. Certainly one of them has began reducing a deeper path, which is able to trigger us issues sooner or later. Not immediately.”

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