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Nights on the opera and days within the piazza: the enjoyment of visiting Verona | Journey



Verona is an beautiful metropolis yr spherical for a weekend break, however with the one centesimal anniversary this summer time of its open-air opera, held within the historical enviornment, now’s an particularly good time to go to.

I’ve come for Rossini’s Barber of Seville, and as nightfall settles over the Roman amphitheatre, the summer time warmth softening to a velvety blue, some 10,000 opera lovers scrabble for his or her seats. Swifts screech by means of the darkening skies and younger lads skedaddle alongside the tiers, arms burdened with shiny brochures and cushions for rent – their sing-song cries of “programmi e cuscini” lilting loud above the swelling chatter.


A hush descends and on strolls Nicola Alaimo, a paunchy Figaro in foppish 18th-century garments. He smiles, then breaks into his well-known tongue-twisting aria – and what follows is a three-hour deal with of ribald humour, extravagantly dressed dancing ladies, and totally divine, toe-tapping music.

Take it easy: one of Verona’s many restaurants tucked down a quiet street.
Take it straightforward: certainly one of Verona’s many eating places tucked down a quiet avenue. {Photograph}: Shutterstock

Goodness, it’s fairly the recent occasion. These fortunate sufficient to nab a ticket are handled to an enviornment older than Rome’s Colosseum, in-built AD30 out of white and pink Valpolicella limestone. Over millennia it’s hosted gladiatorial fights and bloodsports, medieval jousts and horse races. In its heyday, it may seat 30,000, and, at its lowest ebb, was Verona’s greatest pink gentle district.

Quick ahead to the twentieth century, and Maria Callas made her debut right here in 1947 and, on 6 August, one other operatic big, Plácido Domingo, staged a gala efficiency. Thoughts you, it’s not simply music that’s the lure: it’s additionally Verona.

A extremely walkable metropolis, Verona resembles a mini Venice with out the vacationer tat, pungent crowds or packed piazzas – a spot the place locals nonetheless reside and work within the beating coronary heart of its historic centre. Dawdle alongside these marble streets and every flip uncovers scenes straight from an operatic set: flower-filled courtyards and Renaissance balconies, facades with pale frescoes then grand piazzas studded with statuary.

Windows on to the soul: San Zeno cloisters.
Home windows on to the soul: San Zeno cloisters. {Photograph}: Marco Rubino/Shutterstock

I kick off on the metropolis’s standard Casa di Giulietta, and regardless of its doubtful hyperlinks to the famend lovers, the home provides a lovely perception right into a nobleman’s medieval dwelling, replete with beamed ceilings, antiques and costumes from Zeffirelli’s celebrated movie.

You need to guide forward, although you possibly can simply flip up and gawp at Juliet’s statue within the courtyard the place graffiti-scratched love messages cowl historical partitions. You possibly can even marry in the home itself, or stage a proposal – although pity the rejected lover on receiving a “no” with such an enormous gathering of witnesses queueing beneath

The warmth builds, and I escape to the fast-flowing Adige river. Beneath the Roman Ponte Pietra, rapids dance over rocks the place herons perch to catch the breezes, their wings opening like a string of umbrellas. Crossing this bridge brings me to vibrant Veronetta, and at Giardino Giusti I discover a Renaissance walled backyard the place field hedges, plumbago and cypresses combine with marble nymphs and a grotto topped with a grotesque masks.

Table by the river: a view of Castel San Pietro.
Desk by the river: a view of Castel San Pietro. {Photograph}: Fabrizio Troiani/Alamy

Close by is Verona’s spectacular Roman theatre and archaeological museum – or, for a spellbinding sundown panorama, take the funicular to Castel San Pietro and absorb the views with an Aperol spritz from the adjoining café.

Ah – Verona’s foods and drinks scene. I barely scratch the floor of all of the culinary treats on supply. Memorable, nonetheless, is a scrumptious cheese platter at Salumeria Gironda, taken on a romantic terrace overlooking the Adige. So too, the gelati. I like to recommend the weird flavours at Gelateria Ponte Pietra.


For lunch, there’s fabulous tagliatelle bolognese at La Bottega della Gina XXL, the place cooks stretch and stuff pasta when you queue – . And with Verona on the coronary heart of certainly one of Italy’s most celebrated wine-making areas, aperitivo hour is nicely spent at tiny Bottega Vini, an beautiful dark-wood wine bar in Vicolo Scudo di Francia. Established within the sixteenth century, it nonetheless makes use of its stone cellar, courting again to 3BC. If you wish to pattern the area’s velvety reds – these yummy amarones and valpolicella ripassos – that is the place to attempt them by the glass.

Room with a view: a window of the Archaeological Museum, formerly the monastery of San Gerolamo, frames a view of the city and the Adige river.
Room with a view: a window within the Archaeological Museum, previously the monastery of San Gerolamo, frames a view of town and the Adige river. {Photograph}: Shutterstock

Merely strolling by means of Verona uncovers surprising treats: there’s Piazza dei Signori, higher generally known as Piazza Dante in honour of the poet’s lodgings with the Della Scala household and, a brief hop away, a tiny sq. given over to the ruling household’s tombs, elaborate gothic memorials set slap within the coronary heart of town.

If you happen to’ve solely time for one church, make it San Zeno. This wondrous Romanesque basilica homes the stays of the eighth-century bishop of Verona who transformed town to Christianity, fabulously animated frescoes coated with historical graffiti recounting town’s floods of 1568, and Andrea Mantegna’s vivid altarpiece.

I swap this for the sensual delights of Verona’s celebrated fragrance outlets. At The Service provider of Venice in Corso S Anastasia, I’m wooed by heady fragrances and find yourself shopping for a trial package of their finest. The keynotes are playful, foppish and indulgent – a distillation in fragrance of my evening underneath the celebrities at Verona’s opera.


Citalia provides two-night stays on the NH Assortment Palazzo Verona, from £839 per particular person (two sharing), together with flights, transfers and breakfasts. The worth is predicated on 21 August 2023 departure ( Tickets for the opera, which runs till 9 September, are from

Vacation playlist: three extra European classical music summer time festivals

Colorful basque houses in port of Saint-Jean-de-Luz, FranceColorful traditional basque houses in port of Saint-Jean-de-Luz Old Town, France
Colourful basque homes in port of Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France. {Photograph}: Getty Photographs

Pageant Ravel, Saint-Jean-de-Luz
Combine browsing with classical music at Saint-Jean-de-Luz, birthplace of composer Maurice Ravel. The annual Ravel competition showcases not solely his repertoire but in addition the court docket music of Louis XIV by means of to Schubert, Saint-Saëns, Debussy, Berlioz and up to date composers.
23 August-9 September,

Gstaad Menuhin competition
Fabulous surroundings and first-rate performers. The road-up contains pianists Mitsuko Uchida and Yuja Wang, alongside singers Cecilia Bartoli and Matthias Goerne. Ute Lemper pays tribute to Marlene Dietrich, and Fairly Yende headlines in a semi-staged efficiency of Tosca. Offsetting all this tradition are strolling trails above Gstaad for recent alpine air.
Till 2 September,

Salzburg competition
This yr marks the one hundred and fiftieth birthday of Max Reinhardt – the producer whose Everyman in Salzburg’s Cathedral Sq. kickstarted the annual occasion – one of many world’s most celebrated festivals of music and theatre. Count on music from the Philharmonics of Vienna and Berlin and Daniel Barenboim’s West-Jap Divan Orchestra, and free occasions.
Till 30 September,

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