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Piste off! Skiers concern new raise will threaten La Grave’s old skool attraction | Snowboarding holidays



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Tright here’s nothing like scrambling alongside a jagged granite ridge resplendent in russet and lime-green lichen, when it ought to be lined in snow, to remind you that the local weather disaster is in full swing. My information, Maxant Danilo, and I are at an altitude of greater than 2,500 metres within the Hautes-Alpes, however though it’s late January, circumstances on south-facing slopes corresponding to these really feel extra like late spring. Our snowboards are strapped to our backpacks as an alternative of our toes.

La Grave

Danilo, who works for a information collective based mostly in close by La Grave, tells me the resort really had one of many strongest begins to a winter season in recent times, with loads of snow and low temperatures from November till the center of January. The issue is, the fixed gentle climate since has melted a lot of the snowpack.

But he’s not too fearful. “You’ll be able to all the time discover snow to go touring round La Grave, nonetheless unpredictable the circumstances,” he says. And to be truthful, except for that rocky traverse on the ridge, we’ve. Utilizing splitboards – snowboards that break up into two to behave as touring skis so you may hike uphill – we’ve climbed about 750 metres this morning, totally on comfortable snow, with the odd patch of ice, for which we needed to connect crampons to our splitboards.

La Grave village with La Meije peak past. {Photograph}: francois-roux/Getty Photos

The route, referred to as the Col de Côte Plaine, is comparatively mild, making it an incredible introduction to touring for competent skiers or snowboarders. Danilo says he typically brings first-timers right here. From the swooping valley we ascend to our picnic spot on the high, the place we sit dealing with the Écrins massif and dramatic La Meije mountain. The views are extraordinary, with nothing however nature seen to the attention, bar the odd solar-powered climate station.

The one folks we encounter are a bunch of excitable ski instructors planning to experience down a steep couloir on their time off. After a leisurely lunch within the sunshine, the snowboard run down is a whole lot of enjoyable. We preserve going so long as we will, dodging patches of grass till the thawed terrain takes over and we’ve to stroll the final stretch to the highway, the place Danilo hitchhikes again to gather his automotive from the place we left it within the morning.

Climbing on the Girose Glacier. {Photograph}: Andia/Alamy

If we’d had binoculars at our lunch spot, to the proper of La Meije we’d have glimpsed La Grave’s cable automotive, a Pantone swatch of sunny orange, yellow, and purple, which Danilo and I board the subsequent morning. I’m nervous, though I’ve been snowboarding for 20 years, as a result of La Grave has a formidable repute as a hardcore ski resort. Besides it isn’t actually a ski resort in that it has no pistes, maintained trails or security markers, past a raggedy orange flag that’s meant to warn there are cliffs under.


However Danilo assures me that La Grave – which at 3,550 metres presents a number of the highest lift-accessed terrain within the Alps, with a north-facing side that retains the snow good for longer – needn’t be harmful when you rent a information in your first go to so that you will be proven the secure routes down. Nevertheless, he acknowledges that you have to be snug using black runs in a spread of circumstances and have some off-piste expertise.

Twenty minutes or so into our experience up from the village, the outdated raise involves an abrupt halt. Wanting serenely out of the window, Danilo tells me it’s one of many resort’s many charms, affording skiers and snowboarders the possibility to savour the sight of La Meije mountain up shut, its darkish gray rock contrasting with the snow-covered glaciers throughout it.


At a typical trendy ski resort, super-fast lifts whiz hundreds of skiers round an enormous piste community. A visit to La Grave is about reframing the mountain expertise and embracing a slower strategy – taking the time to understand these majestic but fragile landscapes. We’ll do a complete of three runs all day, albeit lengthy and epic ones, with Danilo discovering us some beautiful comfortable snow to experience. We see not more than a handful of individuals. On busy days there could also be 700 folks on the mountain – a fraction of the quantity frequenting most ski resorts – however as everybody spreads out rapidly, even these busy days really feel quiet.

The slopes above La Grave have a distant really feel due to their relative inaccessibility. {Photograph}: mmac72/Getty Photos/iStockphoto

La Grave boasts a low environmental footprint, due to the dearth of piste grooming and snowmaking. Nevertheless, the way forward for the higher part of the resort, a lot of which is taken up by the Girose glacier, is extra controversial. An energy-intensive button raise ought to take skiers and snowboarders to the highest, however because the glacier is receding it could possibly solely run a part of the way in which. As an alternative, guests have to make use of a rope tow pulled by a piste basher for the primary part after which, after the button raise, hike to the highest.

Sam Haddad in La Grave, which is certainly one of France’s highest ski areas. {Photograph}: Sam Haddad

The raise firm Aeon, which additionally owns close by Alpe d’Huez and Les Deux Alpes, desires to interchange the button raise with a cable automotive, enabling extra folks to go to the glacier and take within the panoramic views that stretch so far as Mont Blanc. However many locals are in opposition to the scheme and need the glacier to be returned to its pure state, with entry to the highest restricted to these pleased to hike uphill for at the very least 40 minutes.

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On the terrace of La Grave’s Lodge Castillan, which faces La Meije and is a well-liked après-ski spot for guides, I meet Erin Good. Initially from Seattle, she has been coming to La Grave since 2004, having fallen in love with the “wild rawness” of the place, and has labored as a information right here since 2016.

Good is in opposition to the cable automotive thought and thinks the realm ought to be reserved for low-impact ski touring. “I don’t assume they’re wanting on the larger image of the local weather disaster,” she says, stating the lack of ice depth and quantity at glaciers above us, a course of which she says has accelerated exponentially in recent times and can proceed to take action. “New raise infrastructure would have an effect on folks’s enjoyment of that higher glacier, a singular setting we ought to be defending in any respect prices,” she says. She provides that if the highest was restricted to touring, the powder there would last more – powder being the recent snow that skiers and snowboarders come to La Grave particularly for.


However once I discuss to a hotelier who has lived in La Grave for 46 years, since his resort and the raise first opened to skiers, he tells me he helps the brand new plan. “If you happen to’re operating a enterprise, you may’t be anti these developments,” he says. The problem has divided the village and its surrounding hamlets, a few of which date again to the twelfth century.

There aren’t any luxurious lodges within the village of La Grave. {Photograph}: Francois Roux/Alamy

There aren’t any luxurious lodges, no Folie Douce (the après-ski get together chain with branches in eight Alpine resorts), and few retailers past gear rental locations, a boulangerie and a fromagerie. Plus, the costs are extremely cheap. Many concern this is able to change if the cable automotive was constructed, and that the raise firm would goal a extra upmarket clientele. This, they imagine, would threaten not solely the id of La Grave, but additionally its affordability for locals and guests.

At hostel Gite le Rocher (dorm beds from €60 half-board; breakfast and dinner have been hearty and wonderful) partitions are adorned with classic snowboards, 80s music posters, big Lego Pokémon builds and stickers urging visitors to boycott the area’s Winter Olympics bid.


The temper there and throughout La Grave feels rebellious and old-school, capturing a spirit I recognise from ski resorts twenty years in the past however have not often seen since. And because the snow within the Alps will get much less dependable and snowboarding turns into ever extra unique, this rootsy enclave, which centres on back-to-nature snowboarding, snowboarding, and touring, led by a passionate native guiding group, feels extra vital than ever.

This journey was offered by La Grave Tourisme with practice journey from Brighton to Grenoble through Trainline. A day with a information in La Grave prices from €106, or €141 together with raise cross. Gite Le Rocher presents half-board stays from €58.90pp. Sam Haddad is the creator of on-line e-newsletter Local weather & Board Sports activities

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