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Retreat to Crete: why the Greek island is an ideal escape | Journey



Sometimes, if you journey, you arrive someplace so ridiculously picturesque, so dictionary-definition of the way you count on the nation to look, that you simply half suspect it was constructed as a movie set, or has been “Disneyfied” particularly for vacationers.

I get this sense once I stroll on to the small, horseshoe-shaped bay at Mochlos, Crete. Half a dozen eating places, all cobalt wood chairs, whitewashed tables and blackboards provide gyros and freshly caught fish. On the slim strip of stones that fringes the low sea wall, a handful of locals is towelling off after a late dip, the final two heads bobbing within the metallic blue water, the small, humpy island behind them backlit by the apricot-gold mild of the solar, slowly dipping beneath the horizon.


I settle in with a chilly Mythos and order up a plate of crispy gyros, contemporary pitta and tzatziki. As I gaze out over the slowly darkening Gulf of Mirabello, I really feel positive {that a} week right here, doing nothing however pottering the 10-minute stroll between my lodge, the Mochlos Blue, and this ramshackle clutch of tavernas, can be extra restorative than an expensive spa lodge.

Taking the plunge: cooling off within the Richtis Gorge – a state-protected park close to Exo Mouliana, Sitia, jap Crete. {Photograph}: Nick Brundle /Getty Pictures

However this quiet nook of Crete is nicely value exploring. The northeast, residence to the Dikti mountains, is among the island’s final unspoilt stretches of shoreline, and a world away from the luxurious resorts that scatter the coast round Elounda, and the Nineteen Eighties sprawling resorts and residences that characterise locations reminiscent of Agios Nikolaos.

After a lazy first day, I got down to uncover a great native seashore (the one factor Mochlos doesn’t have), and observe a suggestion to Tholos, hidden away 3km from the principle highway.


It seems to be an absolute deal with of a seashore: an extended strip of sand that is freed from solar loungers and parasols, the one shade thrown by a cluster of tamarind timber sheltering a handful of automobiles. As I step into the water, just one different couple is swimming. The water is sparklingly clear, shoals of tiny fish whisking by the shallows. The mountains loom to the southern finish of the seashore previous one whitewashed home on the small highway that leads over the headland to the north.

The swimming is absolutely solely an excuse for over-indulgence. Cretan meals is arguably the perfect in Greece, the island’s numerous landscapes producing every part from mountain herbs, greens and tangy cheese to grassily scrumptious olive oils, freshly caught fish and crispy pastry snacks, reminiscent of spanakopita – golden flaky pastry, filled with salty feta and herbs. Better of all, as a result of this space of Crete is off the mainstream vacationer path, even essentially the most spectacularly located taverna not often will get overrun.

Shady spot: the quiet life in downtown Mirsini. {Photograph}: Hemis/Alamy

I head to the village of Mirsini, the place a huddle of whitewashed homes clambers up the mountainside and Mochlos is little greater than a obscure white fringe alongside a small strip of sea, lots of of metres beneath. As I climb the steps of the Taverna Kathodon, I go round trays of tomatoes, slowly drying within the sunshine. I emerge on to a sequence of small terraces, filled with terracotta pots and mismatched chairs and tables. The brilliant yellow partitions are coated with every part from straw hats to pretend flowers and previous cooking implements.


The view is so spectacular – nice, scrub-faced mountains, the distant define of Crete’s jagged northern coast like an enormous sleeping alligator beside the ocean – that it wouldn’t matter if the meals was common. As a substitute, I eat crispy mizithropita – a flatbread filled with cheese, scorching off the pan and drizzled with honey, and dolmadakia – essentially the most succulent vine leaves I’ve ever tasted.

On the desk subsequent to me, an aged couple is making their method by a carafe of wine, taking photos to ship to their grandchildren. On the opposite facet of the terrace, a Greek household is squabbling over huge plates of meatballs and calamari. Beneath all of it, the cicadas sustain their rhythmic refrain. It strikes me I’ll have reached peak Greek.

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All of the consuming pushes me into deciding to deal with the Richtis Gorge, a brief half-hour drive from Mochlos. I take the simple choice (though it’s all relative) and drive the steep, twisting highway from the higher automobile park all the way down to the seashore, decreasing the hike from two hours to about 40 minutes (and chopping out many of the uphill stretches). Even so, it’s fairly a clamber and extra like a rainforest stroll than a gorge. Small waterfalls rush by gashes within the rock, understudies for the principle occasion – a shimmering, aquamarine pool with kinetic tendrils of water hurling down over the rock face above.

Service with a view: a desk overlooking the ocean within the village of Mochlos. {Photograph}: Getty Pictures

The Richtis proves to be fairly the journey, justifying my final day of doing little besides lazing by the Mochlos Blue’s tranquil pool. The lodge is adults-only (aside from summer season college holidays), and with simply six rooms it feels extra like a spacious villa; the honesty bar is nicely stocked with snacks, chilly beers and native wine, and the small breakfast buffet is complimented every morning by a standard, home made deal with – scrambled eggs with tomato, spanakopita and, my absolute favorite, loukoumades – deep-fried dough balls, drenched in honey and nuts.

On my final night, I drive up from the village for supper on the Taverna Pure, the place tables are set out in a captivating, tree-dotted backyard. The view throughout the Gulf of Mirabello is probably one of the beautiful on the entire island. I time it good for the sundown and watch, transfixed, because the sky flames by a rare palette of colors, the solar burning slowly down in the direction of the purple-auburn mountains. I order a tomato salad and moussaka, the aubergines mendacity throughout the dish like silk. The view is extraordinary, the meals scrumptious, the beer completely chilled… Would it not be fallacious to remain one other week?


Every week on the Mochlos Blue prices from £899, together with automobile rent and B&B lodging, by Simpson Journey. For extra particulars, go to

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