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Snowboarding with out litter: on the eco-friendly slopes of Slovenia’s Julian Alps | Snowboarding holidays



Winding by means of Slovenia’s Julian Alps, it’s straightforward to overlook the indicators to the Vogel ski centre and keep on driving. The cable automotive and automotive park are hid deep in woods above lovely Lake Bohinj – a deliberate coverage to maintain the panorama free from vacationer litter and visual ski infrastructure. The consequence is among the most pure snowboarding areas in Europe.

Slovenia map Bohinj-Vogel

From its hidden entrance within the woods, the cable automotive ascends to Vogel and the views open up: mountains hovering above, snowy church buildings under, and the deep blue lake dropping away beneath till it’s the dimensions of a puddle.

It took only some minutes to seize skis from the rent centre on the summit, then I used to be off, following the curve of the piste, my legs adjusting to their first passage over the face of winter. Vogel is small and its runs are primarily reds and blues – the type you bomb down by means of the woods, admiring the untarnished nature on both facet. The piste indicators are all wood, no billboards or snow cannon are seen: Bohinj’s Triglav nationwide park received’t enable them for environmental causes. Synthetic snow delays the primary buds of spring, so can mess with the mountain’s pure cycle.

The Vogel ski carry. {Photograph}: Panther Media/Alamy

The Slovenes are identified by their Balkan neighbours as “the skiers” – a popularity earned throughout the second world battle when Slovenian partisans fought the Nazis within the Alps bordering Italy and Austria on skis. They’ve additionally produced a good variety of the area’s medal winners in snow sports activities: former Slovenian-Yugoslavian alpine skier Jure Franko recurrently received golds for the Yugoslavia Olympic group. In the course of the 1984 Winter Olympics in Sarajevo, locals celebrated by chanting: “Jure Franko, we love you greater than burek!” (Burek are much-revered crammed filo pastry rolls; to confess to loving one thing extra is blasphemy.)

It appears the Slovenian mountains haven’t modified a lot in look since partisan and Yugoslav days, because of the eco-conscious planning insurance policies of the park authorities, which forbid the development of huge inns. They even forbade the constructing of one other chairlift in close by Soriška Planina, as a result of it might disrupt the nesting floor of the endangered wild Styrian hen.


The panorama can be a results of Slovenes’ closeness to their mountains. Soriška Planina and Pokljuka are solely an hour’s drive from the capital, Ljubljana, so not everybody wants a lodge close to the slopes – they simply soar of their vehicles and go snowboarding for the day. Mountains are within the nationwide consciousness. “Individuals care for the mountains as a result of it’s simply what all of us do,” stated Blaz Kavcic, an outdoorsy Ljubljanian pal who has skied since he may stroll.

The resort is far more cost effective than related snowboarding areas in close by Italy and Austria. {Photograph}: ZGPhotography/Alamy

Because it was solely my second day again on skis in years, I booked a lesson to enhance my carving approach with Kavcic from Exercise Break, who teaches vacationers and native youngsters. He advised me that almost all Slovenians ski from childhood as a result of “it’s a folks’s sport, not one thing elite”. Many of the youngsters on the slopes that day whizzed previous me in far superior type, a lot to my embarrassment.

Although snowboarding has grow to be dearer because the Yugoslav period, it’s nonetheless far much less expensive than throughout the border in Austria and Italy. I paid €42 for my go at Vogel – a one-week go is €197. Guests can keep in reasonably priced guesthouses within the villages round Lake Bohinj, akin to Stara Fužina, 20 minutes’ drive from Vogel ski centre, or in eco-conscious inns akin to Resort Bohinj and Triglav, which provide seasonal menus and use solely pure or recycled merchandise. I stayed with a pal in Ljubljana, however took a night to take pleasure in Resort Bohinj’s out of doors pool and sauna, excellent for post-ski rest.

The Bohinj valley is one in all Slovenia’s most scenic areas. {Photograph}: Fesus Robert/Alamy

Fortunately, the snow was glorious throughout my journey and the solar sensible, but when situations are dangerous, there’s nonetheless lots to do close by. Acutely aware that the local weather disaster is making the ski season extra unpredictable, native guides from corporations like Exercise Break additionally provide climbing, biking and wild swimming in lakes.

Considered one of their choices is cross-country ski coaching. After a couple of days’ snowboarding in Vogel, I attempted out the cross-country trails in Pokljuka, a excessive plateau 20 minutes’ drive from lakes Bled and Bohinj. It’s house to Slovenia’s biathlon coaching centre, a sport that mixes cross-country snowboarding with taking pictures. Initially from Scandinavia, the game grew to become common in Slovenia partially as a result of searching on skis for recreation and the occasional bear was already a practice. The Slovenian military nonetheless makes use of the centre to coach its specialist mountain fighters.


After one other lesson with Kavcic, I swoosh by means of the woods, protecting a part of the 25-mile (40km) cross-country loop across the nationwide park. The shut cover of timber and up to date snowfall muffled all sound, till the monitor opened out into meadows and an ideal picnic spot.

Inside Resort Bohinj. {Photograph}: Camilla Bell-Davies

Wooden smoke drifted from the chimneys of homes additional down the valley, from villages the place hay remains to be hand-dried in rickety barns. That is Heidi panorama: barely Austrian however one way or the other older, quieter, extra magical.

Whereas different ski resorts are investing in additional synthetic strategies to take care of the drop in snowfall, ecologists in Bohinj are considering in a different way about their winter season. “We perceive the signal of the occasions,” stated Klemen Langus, head of Bohinj’s tourism board and a policymaker within the nationwide park. “Earlier than, Slovenia felt it couldn’t compete with Austria or Italy for snow sports activities; we merely didn’t have the cash. However now we realise that not being burdened with large resorts, and having a panorama that’s lovely to have a look at, the place the ski infrastructure is hidden from view, is a giant benefit. If snowboarding dies, we nonetheless have pure nature.”

Lake Bohinj. {Photograph}: Camilla Bell-Davies

Nonetheless, Langus is hopeful that snowboarding will proceed. Bohinj is placing on a cross-country snowboarding competition, 22-25 March, to have a good time the a centesimal anniversary of the nationwide park. At Pokljuka, they’re busy conserving piles of snow beneath foil and woodchips for subsequent 12 months. International heating could also be making ski seasons unpredictable, however in Slovenia they’re prepared.

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