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Upstaging Umbria: rugged and seductive Le Marche | Journey



We are lounging on the terrace of Lapis Turris, a medieval watchtower excessive within the Sibillini mountains, taking it in turns to call movies that remind us of the extraordinary panorama that wraps itself round us. Sport of Thrones? Cranium Island in King Kong? Tolkien’s Rivendell? It’s tough to select; this beautiful, empty wilderness is Italy’s reply to all three.

Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini, in Le Marche’s mountainous southwest, is filled with dense wooded hills, craggy peaks and luxurious inexperienced valleys. It’s far wilder – and fewer populated – than neighbouring Tuscany and Umbria. You’ll be able to go for days right here earlier than you notice anybody, not to mention a vacationer. It’s additionally a paradise for hikers and severe mountain bikers – with 10 peaks over 2,000m. Le Marche’s capital is Ancona – 4 hours from Rome by practice.


When you tire of the hills, the gorgeous seaside cities on the Adriatic are excellent for a day journey – round a 90-minute drive to the coast. If all that isn’t seductive sufficient, there’s the associated fee – or relative lack of it. It’s one of many few locations the place you end up querying the invoice for the novel worry you’ve been undercharged. An Aperol spritz in any of the native bars prices about €4 and pizzas are prone to be not more than €6.

Our closest city is Amandola, with historical winding streets that lead on to Piazza Risorgimento, the outdated predominant sq.. Lined with bars and cafés, it’s the perfect cease for an aperitivo and is properly stocked for meals, with two supermarkets shut by. We’re spoilt for alternative with one other picturesque native gem, the village of Montefortino. Perched on a neighbouring hill, it appears to be like as if it’s been chiselled from marble. At sundown it gleams pink.


We go to on the second day and it doesn’t disappoint. A steep climb by way of the village leads us to a surprising panorama on the prime with the Sibillini peaks laid out earlier than us. It’s eerily empty, although, as we’re the one ones right here to benefit from the view – apart from the swallows. We retrace our steps to the foot of the village and cease on the Blu Bar Caffè, a pizzeria that’s reassuringly vigorous and crowded. Locals queue for the scrumptious appetisers – stuzzichini – slices of pizza bianco, bruschetta and crostini. For about €5 every, we order plate after plate, washed down with beer, spritz and affogato to complete.

The beautiful sweep of Spiagga di San Michele in Sirolo. {Photograph}: Eddy Galeotti/Alamy

The actual draw of this space are the contrasts and surprises. The mountain surroundings could also be spectacular, however there may be additionally a sandy shoreline to discover. We head for Sirolo, a fairly seaside city well-liked with Italian holidaymakers. It’s simple to see why it’s often called “the pearl of the Adriatic”, with its creamy pastel homes and turquoise shutters, and the piazza overlooking an azure sea.

The small city slopes gently in the direction of the seaside, which we attain by way of a strip of pine forest. It’s a steep descent and on the finish of it’s Spiagga di San Michele, a surprising sweep of fantastic white shingle and clear, crystalline water. We float on our backs within the sea trying up on the city framed by white cliffs and inexperienced hills past.


After a swim and a sunbathe, there’s one factor on our thoughts – no journey to the Italian coast is full and not using a plate of spaghetti alle vongole. We locate a terrific place, Ristorante Vittoria – La Terrazza sul Mare – set again from the seaside with a shaded terrace overlooking the ocean. It’s a kind of memorable meals that you just hope for simply as soon as on any vacation, however can by no means assure. We strike fortunate: sea-fresh frittura calamari, gamberi, antipasto di mare and vongole, augmented with salty chips, low cost prosecco and a surprising slice of the Adriatic. It’s as pleasant a setting as anyplace you’d discover on the Amalfi coast, however at a fraction of the value.

‘Historical winding streets’: Amandola –the outdated predominant sq. is lined with bars and cafes. {Photograph}: Getty Photos

We amble slowly again up the hill to Sirolo, discover the maze of alleyways stuffed with cafés and tempting boutiques, however cease solely to go searching Chiesa San Nicola di Bari, an 18th-century church with a surprising painted ceiling and ornate glass chandeliers. Exterior, an ice-cream at Gelateria Artigianale is properly well worth the queue and, strolling again, our solely remorse is working out of time to cease at Il Grillo, a ravishing bar with tables overlooking the primary road.

Again residence at Lapis Turris, we quiet down to a different distant al fresco night. It’s additionally pleasantly cool and mosquito-free, even when temperatures rise, because of its location 800m above sea degree.


In the event you can bear to tear your self away from the swimming pool and scorching tub, fairly an achievement in itself, there’s a small gate within the backyard that results in mountain climbing trails. Straightforward-to-follow indicators take you thru rolling inexperienced hills and throughout a river with a delicate ascent of 1 peak – the view again in the direction of the watchtower is properly well worth the climb.

Relationship again to the 1080s, Lapis Turris is Le Marche’s oldest fortification, constructed to defend towards the common menace of an Umbrian assault. It will need to have been fairly profitable – one of many decrease bedrooms is, seemingly, the place prisoners had been saved. Ten centuries later, it’s been lovingly transformed by its proprietor into two residences, which works properly for 2 households sharing.


Medieval and stable, all the pieces right here is carved out of historical rock: the tables and seats, the terraces and even a mini amphitheatre, which is floodlit at evening – for particular events, you possibly can e-book a small orchestra to play. Or ideally simply savour the nightly symphony of cicadas and the sound of water dashing by way of the woods beneath.

Lapis Turris sleeps as much as 9 individuals throughout two residences, from £3,993 for seven nights – or £443pp – by way of Oliver’s Travels. For extra particulars go to

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